Bob Mackie is a legendary costume designer known for his extravagant and innovative designs, having worked with iconic stars such as Marilyn Monroe, Cher, Tina Turner, Diana Ross, Elton John, and Pink over an illustrious 60-year career. However, among his many standout creations, one particular design that he initially deemed “embarrassing” was Cher’s provocative "seat belt" outfit from her 1989 music video for "If I Could Turn Back Time." In the new documentary Bob Mackie: Naked Illusion, Mackie reflects on the design process behind this sheer bodystocking, comprised of minimal fabric strips, which he admitted had a "vulgar" quality. He recalls how Cher, who had been a longstanding collaborator, was eager to wear the outfit despite its boldness, leading to a moment where Mackie jokingly requested Cher not to reveal his involvement in its creation. With the passage of time, the outfit has come to be recognized as an iconic moment in both Mackie’s and Cher’s career.
The controversy surrounding the music video wasn’t solely about Cher’s eye-catching outfit; it also involved the context in which it was filmed. Shot aboard the USS Missouri, the majestic warship, the video featured a crowd of sailors as extras. While a U.S. Navy spokesperson approved the song’s lyrics, they hadn’t anticipated the provocative nature of Cher’s attire until it was too late. This oversight garnered significant backlash, with MTV eventually relegating the video’s airtime to after 9 p.m., reflecting public outrage over the perceived indecency. Additionally, Mackie expressed surprise at Cher’s decision to have her young son, Elijah Blue Allman, perform alongside dozens of sailors, illustrating the juxtaposition of innocence amidst the risqué.
As time has passed, perspectives on Cher’s ensemble have transformed. Mackie now acknowledges that the outfit has shifted from controversy to iconic status, emphasizing that Cher’s remarkable figure granted her the unique ability to evoke such vibrant reactions. He commented that few, if any, could have pulled off the outfit without facing similar backlash, reflecting on Cher’s distinctive presence in pop culture. Beyond the "If I Could Turn Back Time" outfit, Mackie noted that they had a history of pushing fashion boundaries together, often leading to contentious receptions. For instance, another infamous design, a feathered and sequined naked illusion dress that Cher wore for a Time magazine cover in the mid-1970s, also faced controversy and was banned in some areas due to its suggestive nature.
Mackie’s design for the Time magazine cover, crafted from an innovative yet highly flammable sheer fabric known as souffle, saw Cher don a gown that was suggestive yet artfully designed to leave much to the imagination. The media uproar that ensued from both the cover and Cher’s public appearances in the dress exemplified the moral pushback against changing standards of modesty and presentation in the 1970s. He describes how the dress managed to capture attention and evoke conversations despite technically revealing nothing overtly scandalous. Bernard’s provocative designs have persisted in conversations surrounding fashion and celebrity, with Mackie expressing surprise that people still reference the Time cover decades later.
In addition to the historical examination of his work, the documentary Bob Mackie: Naked Illusion features Cher reminiscing about their years of collaboration, illustrating the deep friendship and creative chemistry that has prospered throughout their relationship. Mackie divulged that their ongoing collaboration has continued to evolve, including recent accolades such as a Tony Award for his costume designs in The Cher Show, a Broadway spectacular. Their relationship has transcended mere professional engagement, built upon a mutual understanding and support system that has endured decades of fashion evolution and personal growth.
As part of this enduring legacy, a selection of Mackie’s designs and sketches, prominently featuring his creations for Cher, will be auctioned at Julien’s Auctions on December 11. Among the pieces is the memorable dress Cher wore to the Academy Awards in 1983, a design that has its roots in their mutual understanding and shared vision. Reflecting on his remarkable career, Mackie mused about the rarity of achieving a lifelong dream of working in a field one is passionate about, noting that not everyone has that opportunity. In encapsulating his journey, he expressed gratitude and awe at the unique experiences that come with a career devoted to fashion and performance, highlighting how both he and Cher continue to influence and inspire the realms of costume design and popular culture.
In conclusion, Bob Mackie: Naked Illusion serves as a tribute to a significant chapter in the history of costume design, celebrating Mackie’s creative genius and his influential partnership with Cher. While some designs sparked outrage and debate, they have ultimately carved out a significant place in entertainment history. By looking back on their collaborative milestones, the documentary underscores the importance of pushing creative boundaries while also navigating the complex responses from society. As Mackie continues to reflect on his storied career with iconic designs and unforgettable performances, it becomes clear that his work transcends mere clothing, as it embodies a significant cultural commentary on beauty, identity, and the evolving dynamics of expression within popular culture.